Shaister Miester Do Da

Do you know that one of the new hobbies of almost everybody today is doing a little sort of family history research, learning how to do a little family genealogy and eventually discover their own family history and go “Oh, I see”, “Oh, that’s why dad is so…”, “mom is a…” or “That’s why granpa is very appealing to…” and all sorts of things like that and why not? Imagine yourself discovering that one of your ancestors was the president of, say, U.S., or was a senator in the past. If you were given a chance, would you like to learn how to trace your own family history? If you think it’s hard, it’s not.

There are around 37 days to go, as of this writing, before Christmastime and for sure, everybody is getting ready to celebrate one of the most joyous times of the year. This is also a great time, not only for gift-giving, but also for families to gather round in a fireplace in a relative’s house after a sumptuous Christmas Eve dinner and talk about many things and discovering who were your uncles or aunts or ancestors is one of the popular topics for the “gathering”. For sure, one of the topics that can be discussed is about how your family started. There will be someone who will start the ball rolling to trace family history and for sure, everybody will love to hear stories of the old regarding their family, isn’t that right? Christmas sure is fun not only because of the presents that you can give and can get but also the ideas of how your whole clan started, the past lives of your family and maybe, you might even find out that one of your great-great-great uncle was once a popular figure in the past. Nice, huh? And it would be a glorious Christmas for everybody.

So, how do you go about in learning how to find family history? Is there a school that can teach even the simple courses regarding doing family history researching? You all know that this kind of venture is highly specialized and anybody who would want to learn this should go the old conventional way of asking relatives especially those who still have close contacts with the rest of the clan like your a cousin, maybe, or a distant relative. Well, if you still have some information regarding their whereabouts, you already have the very basic step in doing researching family history on your own. You just need some sort of a guide that will help you systematize your endeavors so you won’t be going round in circles and ending up where you started. Again, it’s really easy to go about family genealogy. Everybody has a sort of natural “talent” for it and you can organize everything with the help of a simple learning and guidance tool in the form of a e-book guide and it’s called “You’re Related To Whom?: How To Research And Create Your Own Unique Family Tree”. With this guide, everybody in the society can now easily learn how to do their own family genealogy.

To help you get started, here are some few tips on how to start discovering your own family history. First of all, identify what you already know about your family and gather more information from within family members and relatives. If you can gain “access” to old images, photo albums, newspaper clips, so much the better. You can even decided to go to a public library, regarding if your present generation is famous or not. You might find something worthwhile to help you get started. Second, you need to decide what you want to learn about your family or what your relative might want. Now, these are just some few tips. Discovering your family’s heritage can be exhilarating especially when almost all of your relatives are in one place during the Yuletide season. So, how about it, ready to discover who you are?

My cousin and I are moving to Mexico this year to continue with our education down there because we feel that we could save a lot of money and learn a different language. The reason that we decided to go together is because neither one of us wants to be alone in a new place with people that we do not know. I told him that the only way that I would go down there and live with him is if he gave me one of his Breyer Model Horses. He decided to give me one and we are now in the process of saving some money for our new little adventure.

The item that I’ve held throughout my life and criss-crossed the country with, is a little electronic chess set. It runs on two AA electric batteries and has 8 distinct accomplishment levels. Of course after 43 years the white pieces are a bit yellowed and I’ve misplaced a knight along the way, but mostly and a change of electric batteries once in a while it has been with me since I was fifteen years of age.

My chess set has lived in Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York and even Alaska. It braved wedlock and survived children. It stays patiently in a closet for me to find a moment for a game. Of course I’ve never done it justice, only ever playing to skill stage 5 and for most of the time being sufficient at grade 3 or four, simply it has been a regular friend. It’s hard to trust a chess set could be made in 1972 and hold up until now, but it held up and it is still present at the ready to play!

There are numerous unique and stunning chess sets in the world, they can be a grand thing to amass or to present as gifts. I have seen stunning chessmen in the bazaars of Isreal and Turkey and in the market places of Malaysia. They seem to be a worldwide happening. These reasonably priced sets made from wood, marble or other localized fabrics can be ravishing conversation chessmen or decorative elements, even if one does not play chess.

Additionally, one can discover chess pieces that are fashioned after a smorgasbord of themes, from civil war chess sets that symbolise the North and South to those based on books and motion pictures, such as Lord of the Rings.

An ancient, better that vintage, chess set on the lower shelf of the laundry room in my friends’ home in a worn blue box is nothing treasure seekers would present to Antiques Roadshow for an appraisal. Nonetheless, this set of black and red chessmen, with the satisfying feel of even the pawns, is priceless.

In my history are stories of childhood, an uncle who passed on before I left grammar school, and hours discovering the game and competing with my younger sister. Rather of maturing into chess, I matured out of it, more distractions and little patience as I went toward my mid life. This chess set raises invaluable remembering beyond the damaged board and well aged pawns.

I think back when I was young that my dad would only on special occasions bring out the family chess set. I was invariably so charged to view the hinged marble box with the black and bronze two inch checkers on it. This wasn’t your plain jane chess set, this was a totally wooden hand crafted set.

I can recall each and every chess pieces with amazing detail, the knights, so stern and forceful. The rooks painstakingly straight cylinders with the minutest details displaying several hours of work. I still have that chess set, it is missing a few pieces now, but I still can’t wait to exhibit it to my boys when they’re senior enough to appreciate it.

Rule 1 of poker is “Play happy.” That’s a good one for you low rollers, to whom I address a good many of my columns.

You’re probably not trying to make a living at the lower limits, but, even if you are, you should still have fun while doing it. You get one guy raining on everyone’s parade, and soon everyone else starts feeling miserable. That leads to less desire to gamble. The game tightens up. The less action in a small game, the less money the good player makes.

Two things make a poker game fun: having a good time and winning. When they’re combined, it’s the greatest game in the world. If you’re not winning, it’s much easier to take in a game in which the players are pleasant and having a good time than it is at a table full of grumps. You can deal with the grumps better when you’re winning, of course, but how much better to have the ups and downs - and, if you continue to play well, you’ll have more winning sessions than losing sessions - in games that are uniformly pleasant.

Fortunately every game does not contain what the English call “an old misery guts,” someone who seems to get pleasure out of complaining. But what can you do if you find yourself in such a game? My advice is to get out of the game. Find yourself a better one, one in which the players are having fun. If you’re in a large cardroom, that will be easy, because you have lots of games to choose from. If you’re in a smaller cardroom, and there’s no other game at a limit in which you feel comfortable, you might consider trying another cardroom. It’s just not worth staying in a game with one or more such players. A game with “bad vibes” will affect your play. You won’t do as well.

You can contribute to this overall sense of well-being in your regular games by always being on your own best behavior.

You can’t win every hand that you play. And you can’t win every session you play.

Arising out of the first is that you will take some bad beats. In fact, if you play low-limit “no fold ‘em hold ‘em,” you will get drawn out on a lot, even when you consistently play better cards than the others. If they didn’t win those longshots once in awhile, they wouldn’t play them, and you wouldn’t win as much. You have to realize an important fact: at this level of expertise, you make much more money from the poor play of your opponents than you do from your own good play. When someone draws out on you on the river with the one card remaining in the deck that can make him a winner, when you were something like a 12-to-1 favorite, don’t give him a lecture that starts with “How could you stay in…?” Just smile and say, “Please take the pot. Nice hand.@

If, on the other hand, you start with good cards, bet when you continue to have the best of it, and fold when you don’t, you’re going to make money in the long run. As Mike Caro keeps drumming into everyone’s heads, you’re not getting paid to win pots; you’re getting paid to make good decisions.

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The first thing to find out is the table limits. In a 4/8 Hold’em game, all bets in the first 2 rounds (before and after the Flop) must be in increments of $4, and the last 2 rounds (after the Turn and the River) $8. Typical limits for casino Texas Hold’em are: 2/4, 3/6, 4/8, 8/16, 15/30, 30/60 and 40/80. In No-Limit Hold’em, you can bet as much as you want, up to all of your chips, at any time.

The limits tell you two very important things: how much money you need and what type of opponents you’ll face.

A good rule of thumb for a starting bankroll is 20 times the “big bet,” so if you were playing 3/6 Hold’em, you should buy in for $120. You can buy chips from a cashier, or an attendant will bring them to you at the table.

Low-limit games tend to be populated by locals who play very conservatively. You’ll find these games mostly at the Downtown and off-strip poker rooms like Binion’s and Palace Station.

High-Limit and No-Limit games (15/30 and above) are the realm of “Rounders,” professionals who make their living playing poker. The Bellagio is Las Vegas’ premier high-limit room. Unless you can stomach losses measured in the thousands or have a lot of poker experience, it’s best to avoid these games.

The best bet for the casual player are the low- to mid-limit games at casinos like the Mirage and the Orleans. These games offer nice surroundings and players with varied experience levels, which translates into friendly games with lots of action.

Once you decide where to play, be sure to budget plenty of time. I was seated right away on mid-week afternoons at Binion’s and the Mirage, but in the evenings and on weekends, the wait can be well over an hour.

The game itself demands a lot of time too. Despite what you see on T.V., the vast majority of your time is spent mucking your cards. Following the recommended “tight aggressive” strategy, I only played 2 hands in as many hours at Binion’s.

The good news is that your money lasts a long time. Only the two players to the immediate left of the dealer are forced to ante each hand: a “small blind” equal to half the lower betting limit and a “big blind” equal to the lower limit. A full table has 10 players, so even if you folded every hand in a round, it would only cost you 1.5 times the lower limit: $6 in a 4/8 game. 10 bad hands at a blackjack table will cost you $100 in a fraction of the time.

There are some other casino-related costs to consider, however.

In exchange for the safe environment, fair game and free drinks, the poker room charges a commission called the “rake.” This is typically a percentage of each pot up to a set maximum. In the 2/4 game at Binion’s, the rake was 10% up to a maximum of $4. So the house always wins, but at least it’s only when you do too.

The dealers depend on tips for a large portion of their income. While not mandatory, 3% of your winnings is considered standard.

If you don’t have time for all this mucking and raking, and just want a quick shot of No-Limit Hold’em excitement, then tournaments are the way to go. Tournaments allow you to play with a lot more chips than you could otherwise afford, use a rapidly increasing blind structure to speed up the action, and offer the chance to win thousands of dollars.

The Mirage’s Poker Zone Tournaments run Sunday through Thursday night. For $130 to $330 (depending on the day of the week), players get $500-$750 in tournament chips and play until someone has them all.

If that sounds like too much to risk on the long odds of beating 50 other players, show up at the poker room at 1 o’clock to sign up for a satellite. These 1-table mini-tournaments last about an hour and are the best poker value in Vegas. For $35 to $75, 10 players receive $300 in tournament chips and the top 2 finishers win a seat in that night’s main event.

I played in 2 satellites with buy-ins of $35 and $55. While I didn’t win either one, I bluffed my way to a big pot, went “all-in,” and even got knocked out on a “bad beat” – just like on T.V.

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The number one consideration, from the point of view as an attorney, is whether or not the game is legal. Laws vary from state to state in the U.S., in many others the game is legal as long as ALL of the money goes to the players. If a non-player is getting a fee for hosting, dealing, promoting, or arranging the game, you may be in trouble. And don’t give me the old, “What are the odds of getting caught?” The last thing I want toward the end of a successful night is a visit from the not-so-friendly neighborhood sheriff, who will give me a summons, confiscate all of the money, and send me home as broke as the losers!

Next, think long and hard about whether you will be playing primarily for fun or for profit. Of course you want to have fun either way, but the stakes, players, and types of games may not suit both objectives equally. For example, sometimes I play in a Friday-afternoon, No-Limit Hold’em, single-table tournament with business contacts.

On the other hand, you may see the home game as another source of income. If so, keep these principles in mind:

Games with wild cards or too many cards increase the luck factor, so they are bad from a profit-seeking perspective. From time to time, my usually conservative home game degenerates (generally late in the evening and at the urging of one or more players who are losing) and someone deals “Lotsa Pasta.” For those who haven’t yet had the displeasure, this idiotic game is played like Omaha hi-low, but with each player receiving 6, 7, or even 10 cards, depending on how many participants there are. Generally, the first cry of “Lotsa Pasta” is my signal to head home. The readers who play a lot of Omaha know what a river game it is, but in Lotsa Pasta, quads and straight flushes are downright common.

Don’t play for profit with people with significantly less regard for the dollar than you have. That means people who are much wealthier, as well as people who typically gamble for much higher stakes. You won’t be able to bet them out, but they may be able to bluff you out when they raise or re-raise the maximum. My home game went through a rough stretch when someone (we haven’t yet been able to convict the guilty party)invited a guy who convinced a majority to raise the stakes significantly, then raised the new maximum as often as he could. Yes, sometimes his bluffs were called, but occasionally he had the goods and people were going home much more down than usual. He was an “empty-nester,” with plenty of disposable income, and our $10 and $20 bets were chicken feed to table.

A related point is having a set time to finish the game. The losers NEVER want the winners to depart with their cash, and if you listen to them they will keep you playing until luck, fatigue, or both pry the profit from your wallet. If you are starting a game, get clear agreement among the players about a drop-dead, walk-away ending time. If you are joining an established game, find out when it ends and make it clear that you will honor that and expect everyone else to do likewise.

Finally, know when to say “when.” Everyone has bad nights, and they aren’t the ones in which you continually get dealt bad cards. The worst nights are those in which you repeatedly finish second, so you lose the most on each hand.

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You have to save an awful lot of dollars to make up for just once mistakenly throwing the best hand in a $100 pot for a $1 bet.

There was a player who was absolutely convinced that no one would be dumb enough to bluff for his last chip. Say the pot contains $80. You might have $11 left after having put $40 so far into the pot. He has a good hand, but not the absolute nuts. He bets $10, and you put in all of your chips, that is, you raise your last $1. Most poker players would sigh and then call that last minuscule raise, not willing to take any chance on losing a $100 pot for a mere dollar. Most poker players also always end up losing that last chip nearly every time. He wanted to show he was too smart for that, and saved that dollar. He would never throw a pot away if the player was about to buy more chips, and was just trying to get rid of those last chips.

A few players caught on to his habit, however, and, perhaps as a desperation play once in awhile would take a chance on their last chips, and go all in as a bluff. They would never do it against any other player, knowing that any other player would resignedly toss in the extra chip.

Did this player outsmart himself? He didn’t think so. He thought he was very clever not to lose that last dollar. The pot has $100 in it, he’d reason. Let’s say he’s in that situation 100 times. He throws away his hand each time. Let’s further say he’s right 99 of those times, so he saves $99. On the hundredth play someone bluffs his case money in desperation. Our friend loses the $100 in the pot that he could have had for calling the dollar. That’s a net loss of $1 for the 100 plays, or about 1 cent per play. Not much of a loss per play when you figure it that way, right?

Here’s what’s wrong with that reasoning.

First, the situation probably wouldn’t come up 100 times in any one player’s lifetime.

Second, even if the precise situation did come up 100 times, that one bluff per 100 would be only a guess. Even if it was a good one, it would still be an average. Statistical analysis would show that this is an awfully small sample. Some runs of 100 situations he would be right every time. Some runs he’d be wrong as many as 10 times. Over thousands of runs it all might average out, but what if the next 100 is the run he gets bluffed 10 times? He saves a buck 90 times, plus $90; he loses $100 10 times, minus $1000. Net loss, $910. Not such a good play anymore.

Third, once smart players see that he might fold sometimes for an extra buck, they might well make the play.

Never throw away a moderate-sized or larger pot for a tiny fraction of that pot, even if the chances are practically nil of being bluffed. I adopted this maxim years ago, right after one player and I got into a raising war in a straight $2-limit (Northern California style, same bet both before and after the draw) lowball game. I was drawing to 6-4-joker-ace, with an extra 6; he wanted to gamble, and so showed me his whole hand, king-6-3-2-ace, and then kept reraising me each time I raised him. I wasn’t going to quit, because the joker made mine the better draw. Finally, after 20 bets apiece, he stopped raising. We each drew a card. He was first to bet, and came right out swinging. I paired fours, and disgustedly dumped my hand.

He showed me his pair of sixes, and gave me the horselaugh as he took the pot. Since then, if a pot had as few as 10 bets, I usually called the last bet, even if I had hardly any chance of winning, and even if proper poker strategy said it was a bad play. No, I wasn’t like the guy who had lost his farm calling every bet, but, by God, no one had bluffed him. I just wasn’t going to give up any pot for one bet that represented only a small part of the pot.

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Often this decision is made for us. Lots of small clubs know that the one or two available games will break at or around a certain time, as players get tired or go broke, or the municipal code curfew kicks in. Even big poker rooms suffer attrition as the night wanes.

The problem is ridiculously compounded online, because there the game never breaks.

We often apply this outside force going in. We tell ourselves that we’ll stay in the game until traffic dies down or the dinner party starts or we have to go to work. Those who are ineffective at extricating themselves from cash play often stick to tournaments, especially online, because these come with clearly defined end points: You stay until your chips, or all your foes, are gone. Those who are fuzzy minded about all this stumble into cash games with no clear notion of how long they want to play or what they hope to achieve.

Here’s a thought: Before you sit down and play, know exactly when you’ll stand up and go. This is a radical notion, I know, for it flies in the face of the received wisdom that tells us to “stay in the game as long as the game is good.” But I have a feeling (and certainly know from my own experience) that the act of placing one’s cash play in a fixed time frame is yet another way of applying the clear eyed rigor and discipline that winning poker players have. Suddenly your poker play is not an indulgence or a recreation, but a planned assault on the stacks of your foes. You know when you’re getting in, and you know when you’re getting out. You have, in other words, an exit strategy, and even a cursory survey of military history tells us how useful those can be.

But you know this. You know this already. You know the dull ache of walking away from the table one lap too late, when weariness, sleep debt, lack of focus, ennui or oxygen-debt stupidity have caused you to make costly blunders - blunders you know you wouldn’t have made an hour earlier.

Fine. We’ve all stayed too long at the fair, ridden the roller coaster one too many times, and upchucked on our shoes. How long, then, is not too long? What’s a reasonable duration for a sensible poker session? Two hours… three?… ten? Unfortunately, that’s not a question I can answer for you. Only you can answer it, in terms of how long you can maintain your focus, discipline and, not insignificantly, good spirit. Externals factor in, of course: Is the game still good? Is the lineup still one you can beat?

But state of mind can change fast. I’ve seen - you’ve seen, everybody has seen - how one bad beat can put a player on tilt and send him down the road to ruin. When that bad beat happens to me, I just go. I’m just not confident that I can keep my spirit and focus high in the wake of it. Yes, I know I may be walking away from a game that is still profitable. Yes, I know I should be able to shrug off adverse outcomes, and mostly I can. But sometimes stronger measures are called for. The most directly effective exit strategy is: exit, quickly.

Do you have such a voice in your head? Can you heed it? Or do you ignore it? And if you do ignore it, why do you do so? I can think of a couple of reasons. One might be the spurious need to “get even.” Another might be that the setback comes early in your session, when the poker itch has not yet been sufficiently scratched. Can you think of a time when you knew you should’ve gotten out, didn’t, and came to regret it?

Mike Caro talks about passing the point of pain and entering a mental state where losing more money won’t make you feel any worse than you already feel. My own experience of this is that while most big losses are gradual descents, it’s also quite possible to blast past the point of pain in a heartbeat. Whether this happens after ten minutes or ten hours, it’s a strong cue to get up and get out.

Annie Duke has an even more practical approach to this matter. She recommends leaving any game in which you’ve lost more than 30 big bets. The estimable Ms. Duke reckons that 30 big bets is what a good player can hope to earn in a good session, and therefore can have the reasonable expectation of recouping her losses next time out. To go beyond that threshold is to dig a hole too deep, and not just in monetary terms. A big loss leaves ache in its wake, and the residue of that ache makes correct play more difficult during the next session.

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Trivia is not only educational it can be a great way to improve your memory. There are lots of sites on line where you can find trivia questions on almost any topic imaginable. You are sure to find something that interests you. It may be an old favorite or something new you want to learn about. Many sites will even let you print the questions so that you can do them any where. Just a few minutes a day and you will find that not only is your memory improving but trivia games can and do raise the level of your cognitive thinking.Just a few minutes of trivia each day will make a world of difference.

I’ve always meant to go into the spy store across the street from my bus stop. Yesterday, I missed the bus and I had twenty minutes to spare before the next one. This was my opportunity to finally go in and look around. They have some classic items in there. Haven’t you always wanted a fountain pen with a miniature camera concealed in the cap? They have that, and they have the lighter that takes a high-resolution snapshot when you flick it open.

For some reason, a lot of the classic spy gear is connected to smoking. I think it’s due to the influence of spy movies in which the hero is always going into a smoke-filled casino. Or he’s being interrogated by Europeans who offer cigarettes to the hero, maybe point them threateningly across the table, and even crush them into the cheek of the prisoner. But the spy hero comes prepared with a cigarette case concealing a movie camera and a dart gun, so he can fight back with his own tobacco arsenal.

Some of the best things in the spy store are modern upgrades to old ideas. For example, they have a miniature GPS tracking device. That may seem obvious and boring, but it’s really an enormous improvement on the old radio-based trackers. Back in the twentieth century, you could easily slip your tracking device into the mark’s pocket or stick it on his shoe, but when it came time to find his location, it wasn’t so simple. You were receiving a radio signal that told you the distance from the tracker but not the direction. You could drive around for quite a while before you worked out which way to go, and by that time the signal could be out of range.

A digital tracker with GPS transmits the actual map location to you, so it’s simplicity itself to find the target. The spy store even has one that’s integrated with a camera. You could stick this under someone’s bumper to find out where they’re going. The device is so small that it doesn’t have enough power to send you the camera footage, but the GPS signal makes it easy to keep track of the device and retrieve it later. This could be a dangerous gadget in the wrong hands. I’m glad I have no secrets to hide!